Overcoming the Challenges of Gardening by the Seaside

You wake up greeted by a stunning view and are lulled to sleep by the gentle sound the sea makes when it caresses the beach. Is it too much to ask for a blooming garden?

beach-garden

Almost all coastal property owners will tell you that gardening is like a losing battle. Simply put, the elements that make a coastal property appealing are the same elements that make seaside gardening difficult. You’ve got to deal with sandy soil, a huge amount of salt and heat, and onshore winds.

These elements combined can burn leaves and inhibit the growth of plants. But rather than accepting and being resigned to your fate as a shoreline property dweller, you can take a few steps in order to make your dream of having a beautiful coastal garden come true. The key here is to find suitable plants and make do with the available conditions.

One of the first things that you need to deal with is the soil quality. For example, if you live along Perth’s coastal area, it is highly likely that the soil on your property is more alkaline.

This requires improving soil quality through the addition of both organic matter and wetting agents. These will improve the structure of the soil as well as its capacity to hold water.

In adding organic matter, make sure that you dig this into the ground instead of simply spreading it on top of the soil. This will help prevent the growth of weeds.

It is also advisable to apply a thick layer of mulch at least once a year in order to contain evaporation and serve as a cushion for the ground against the wind.

And speaking of winds, you have to minimise the effects of these on the growth of your plants. The best way to do that would be to create windbreaks by using strategically positioned trees and shrubs around the garden.

beach gardenIn building windbreaks, you can try to combine trees and shrubs with any material you have on your property. You may also use fences and screens, but be sure to leave a gap to prevent turbulence. Keep the harsh wind and intense sunlight away from your plants.

When it comes to selecting plants for your coastal gardens, opt for native plants instead of having a lawn and a garden of flowering plants. Native plants can easily handle the conditions in your area and can provide both food and home for local birds and animals. Plus, these plants are more tolerant to drought and require little water.

For professional assistance with your garden planning and design, planting and maintenance, please don’t hesitate to call Jim’s Mowing & Gardening on 0800 454 654 or book online today!

Tips for Beautiful Roses

Climber Rose varieties

Climbing Rose varieties

The reward for gaining and applying the relevant knowledge about rose gardening is big, beautiful rose bushes, laden with colourful and fragrant roses. Here we will help you learn all about pruning roses, preparing rose beds, types of roses and the best way to look after them.

The types of rose bushes you can choose from are; Shrub Roses, Miniature Roses, Climber, Grandiflora, Floribunda and Rugosa. Be aware that some of these are quite hardy while others can be sensitive, so be sure to choose wisely and buy ones that are suited to your garden and lifestyle.

Caring for Your Roses

Caring for rose bushes is vital to their general health and vigour, as well as their appearance, below are some helpful guides.

Planting

Plant roses where they will collect a minimum of 5 to 6 hours of full sun per day. Roses grown in weak sun may not die at once, but they weaken progressively. Give them plenty of organic matter when planting and don’t crowd them.

Wear sturdy gloves to shield your hands from prickly thorns and have a hose or bucket of water and all your planting utensils nearby. Keep your bare-root rose in water until you are ready to place it in the ground.

Minature Rose varieties

Minature Rose varieties

Roses can be cut back and moved in either spring or winter, definitely not in summer, as they may suffer and die in the high temperature. Large rose canes can be cut back by as much as two thirds, and smaller ones to within 6 to 12 inches of the ground.

When you relocate your roses, be sure to dig a much bigger hole than you think you need (for most types, the planting hole should be about 15 to 18 inches wide) and add plenty of organic matter such as compost or aged manure.

Watering

Roses require at least an inch of water weekly throughout their growing season, beginning in spring or following spring planting. Rose bushes are very prone to fungal diseases, such as black spot and powdery mildew, especially when their foliage is kept too wet.

Attentively water your roses, ensure that you soak the entire root zone at least twice a week in dry weather. Elude frequent shallow sprinklings, which won’t reach the deeper roots and may encourage fungus. Roses do best with 90 inches of rain per year, so unless you live in a rain forest, water regularly, although If adequate drainage is not provided, they can easily drown. The ideal soil is rich and loose, with good drainage. One of the worst mistakes you can make is to not provide adequate drainage.

Use mulch to help save water, decrease stress, and encourage healthy growth, apply a 2 to 4 inch layer of chopped and shredded leaves, grass clippings, or shredded bark around the base of your roses. Allow about an inch of space between the mulch and the base stem of the plant.

Florabunda Roses

Florabunda Roses “French Lace Rose”

Feeding

Feed roses on a regular basis before and throughout the blooming cycle (avoid chemical fertilizers and pesticides if you’re harvesting for the kitchen), a slow releasing fertilizer is best or apply a balanced granular fertilizer (5-10-5 or 5-10-10) minimum of once a month during the hotter months. Allow ¾ to 1 cup for each bush, and sprinkle it around the drip line, not against the stem. Also apply an additional tablespoon of Epsom salts along with your fertilizer; the magnesium sulphate will encourage new growth from the bottom of the bush.

Pruning

Prune roses every spring and terminate all old or diseased plant material. Start with pruning shears for smaller growth. Use loppers, (the bigger, long-handle shears) for growth that is more than half an inch thick. A small pruning saw is handy, as it cuts on both the push and the pull.

Deadhead religiously and keep beds clean. Every leaf has a growth bud, so removing old flower blossoms encourages the plant to make more flowers instead of using the energy to make seeds. Clean away from around the base of the rosebushes as any trimmed debris that can harbor disease and insects. Stop deadheading all your rose plants 3 to 4 weeks before winter so

Grandiflora Roses

Grandiflora Roses

as not to encourage new growth at a time when new shoots may be damaged by the cold.

Preparing Your Roses for Winter

Do not prune roses in the winter, simply cut off any dead or diseased canes. Stop fertilizing 6 weeks prior to winter but continue watering during dry weather to help keep plants fortified. Mulch or add compost before the weather turns too cold. Compost, mulch, dry wood chips or chopped leaves are all good for insulating your rose beds.

Pests and Diseases

Good gardening practices such as removing dead leaves and canes will help reduce pests. Find out which pests are most prevalent in your area by checking with your local nursery. Here are some of the more common problems:

  • Stem Borers
  • Japanese Beetles
  • Aphids
  • Black Spot/Powdery Mildew
  • Spider Mites

Roses are a delectable treat for pests so try planting lavender near your roses. Not only will you have the makings of a nice potpourri, but the scent of lavender discourages most pests.

Rugosa Roses

Rugosa Roses

Fun Fact

Rugosa roses are overloaded with vitamins and used for jams, jellies, syrups, pies, teas, and wine. The petals can be tossed into salads for colour, utilized to decorate cakes, or distilled to make rose water.

For expert assistance with pruning your precious roses, or any other gardening maintenance, please contact Jim’s Mowing on 0800 454 654 or book online today!

Shrub Roses

Shrub Rose Display

Make Your Garden a Wildlife Sanctuary

Gardeners are in the front line of the battle to preserve nature. These simple measures will help provide food and habitats for a healthy eco-system in your back yard.

Guidelines for Drawing Wildlife to Your Garden

Australian gardeners have a brilliant opportunity to experience the pleasures of our exceptional flora and fauna. Vast areas of suburbia are within range of bushland corridors that are frequented by a wide range of fascinating wildlife. With some attentive landscaping and suitable plant selection, we can attract many of these captivating creatures as well as generate habitats and corridors to help regenerate and sustain breeding populations for future generations.

The types of wildlife that can flourish in your garden will depend on numerous factors:

  • The proximity of adjoining bushland areas
  • The presence of predators such as cats, dogs and foxes and your actions to counteract them,
  • Whether you design your garden as a habitat where wildlife can not only visit, but also make it their home.

Nesting boxes for birds and marsupials make a good substitute for tree hollows which are usually hard to provide in urban areas. Trees or other tall perches provide spots where birds can survey your garden and decide whether they can find food and shelter in safety. Rockeries, logs and piles of sticks will provide a habitat for reptiles such as blue-tongue lizards

Unfortunately, bringing wildlife into your garden will create a risk if you also have fruit trees and favourite roses. A framework covered with netting can be erected at times of the year when damage is most likely, or throw over a large piece of bird netting. Sometimes birds, bats and snakes and larger lizards can get caught in netting, so it should be inspected from time to time so the unfortunate creature can be cut loose.

Birds and window collisions. If a bird sees what it perceives to be a clear flight through a house, then injury or death can result when it impacts an intervening window. Blinds, curtains and decorative objects placed behind the window will help to discourage this accidental problem.

Do not use chemicals in your garden. As well as the possibility of causing acute toxicities to wildlife that could result in immediate death, there is also the problem of a long term build-up of toxic substances in local wildlife. In many cases birds and reptiles will provide adequate control of pests such as snails and aphids without the need for chemical measures.

Supplementary feeding can be provided at times of year when natural supplies are scarce, however, it should never become more than that. The healthiest course is to try to provide natural food sources for as great a part of the year as possible. Nectar feeders, seed trays and tables can be provided in locations that provide a safe haven from any unintended predators that may be lurking nearby.

Enticing Butterflies to your Garden

Butterflies and moths have a special beauty that makes them such a delight in the garden.  Most species feed on nectar from the base of flowers that is part of their role as pollinators of a wide range of plants. A few tips to get your butterfly garden started are- butterfly

Everlasting and Brachyscome daisies not only provide nectar but the daisy flower heads provide a great landing platform

Do not automatically destroy caterpillars in your garden unless they are doing major damage. Caterpillars are the larval stage of butterflies and moths.

Other plants that are particularly attractive include Grevilleas, Pimeleas (rice flowers), Lomandras (mat-rushes) and Dianellas (flax lilies).

green frogAttracting Reptiles and Frogs to your Garden

Frogs and small reptiles will be attracted by ponds that have a natural feel with suitably placed rocks and water plants. They will also control mosquito larvae and other insect pests as a side benefit. Such a pond will also benefit birds and any mammals that find their way into your garden. A log or large rock in the water can provide a perch for birds to drink and bathe in safety from predators such as cats.

The pond can be as simple or ambitious as you like. A cheap and simple pond can be made from a solid styrofoam box or old kid’s paddling pool, a great project to share with the children. Be aware though that care will be needed with young children, as they can drown in even shallow bodies of water. A netting overlay can be made to cover the pond for peace of mind. Larger pools can be made with commercially available plastic ponds, or plastic or rubber linings used for excavations. Once the family swimming pool has outlived the chore of daily maintenance, it can be converted to the ultimate home wildlife sanctuary, inviting water birds as well as frogs, dragon flies and other lovely insect life.

Attracting Native Birds to Your Gardennative bird

Nectar feeding birds are one of the simplest groups to entice as there is a wealth of appropriate plants such as eucalypts, angophoras, banksias, grevilleas, waratahs, kangaroo paws and many others. Look for tubular shaped flowers as this indicates plants that are pollinated by nectar feeders such as spinebills, honeyeaters and wattlebirds. The remarkable parrot family also includes lorikeets and rosellas which also feed on nectar as well as seeds from eucalypts, acacias, casuarinas and tea trees as well as many other easy to grow natives.

Rainforest plants including Lillypillies and blueberry ash have colourful berries that appeal to parrots as well as various species of native pigeons. Finches such as red-browed firetails and zebra finches will feed on the seed of native grasses such as wallaby and kangaroo grass while superb fairy wrens, fantails and thornbills are insectivorous and will greatly aid in controlling pest insects in your garden. Small birds such as these will appreciate spiky leafed plants such as Grevillea rosmarinifolia, Acacia oxycedrus and Melaleuca styphelioides to enable them to have a safe haven within your garden.

Winter Food Sources for Garden Wildlife

A number of Australian plants can offer winter sustenance such as most correas (also known as native fuchsias), various banksia species and ever blooming grevilleas such as Robyn Gordon, Superb, Moonlight and Misty Pink. Autumn flowering wattles such as Acacia iteaphyla, linifolia and terminalis along with native grasses such as kangaroo and wallaby grass will provide seed through the winter months.

Many exotic garden plants such as camellias, red hot pokers, fuchsias and members of the hibiscus family and abutilon will provide food sources for a number of native bird species.

In addition, a number of hostile species such as jasmine, ivy and even blackberries can and do provide nesting and sheltering sites for birds and possums.  Other less apparent weed species such as winter grass also provide seed that supplements the diet of smaller birds. If you intend to substitute these weedy species it is a good idea to gradually remove them and replace with more environmentally friendly plants, rather than leave gaping holes in the landscape.

If you want to add a professional touch to your wildlife sanctuary, call Jim’s Mowing for their landscaping expertise on 0800 454 654 or book online now!

 

 

 

How To Choose the Right Mulch for Your Plant

Generate the aspect you want, and give your plants the nutrients they require, by choosing the most appropriate mulch.

compostCOMPOST

You can use compost on all the plants in your garden, but it really is best suited to fast-growing, nutrient-hungry plants such as vegetables, fruit trees and flowering annuals. It breaks down in a number of months, increasing the soil’s capability for holding water and nutrients and depending on its source, makes the soil more bountiful. Being dark in colour, compost increases heat absorption, warming the soil, but it also favours the growth of weed seeds.

woodchip mulchWOODCHIP MULCHES

Mulch from hardwood trees, such as eucalypts, lasts up to five years; pine or other softwood mulch lasts two to three years. These are very low in nutrients and should not be mixed into the soil surface. Don’t use woodchips fresh, as they can contain high levels of toxins including tannins. Woodchips are best used around trees, shrubs and other long-term plantings, and particle sizes above 20mm last longer and give better water preservation.

straw mulchSTRAW

Made from dried plant stalks left behind after crops, such as oats or peas, have been harvested. Straw breaks down in three to six months, depending on which type of plant it’s made from. If it comes from legumes, such as pea straw, it breaks down more quickly and adds nutrients, particularly nitrogen, to the soil. Straw from cereal crops, such as oats, is lower in nutrients and takes longer to decompose, but all straw mulches build up the soil’s capacity to hold water and nutrients. Straw can be used anywhere in the garden, but is best suited to areas that are maintained regularly, such as vegetable patches. Being light in colour, it tends to keep soil cooler, thus reducing evaporation more effectively than darker mulches.

sugar-cane-mulchSUGARCANE MULCH

Derived from the dried leaves of the sugarcane plant, left after harvesting, this mulch decays in about six months. It only adds a minor quantity of nutrient to the soil but certainly acts as a conditioner, building water- and nutrient-holding capacity. You can use it on all parts of the garden, but it is best suited to areas that are maintained frequently, such as vegetable patches. It reflects sunlight, keeping the soil cooler and reducing moisture loss.

bark mulchesBARK MULCHES

Made from a variety of tree species, with pine bark being the most commonly available, these last for about two years. Barks don’t add any nutrients to the soil and should not be used fresh (as they may contain toxins when newly milled) or mixed into the soil without being composted. They come in various grades, from fine to coarse, and those with larger particles are best for most gardens. You can use them on all plants, but they are best around long-term plantings, such as trees and shrubs. Used on herbaceous plants, such as vegetables, they are likely to become combined into the soil, resulting in ‘nitrogen drawdown’.

 gravel_roundriver20mm-300x300GRAVELS AND PEBBLES

Gravels come from quarrying, while pebbles, which are smoother, are from river beds. Both materials are everlasting features when used as mulches. Particles above 20mm make the best mulch. They add very little or no nutrients, but don’t draw any out of the soil. Various colours are available, and the lighter colours reflect sunlight, reducing water loss in warmer climates. Gravels and pebbles are best used for long-term plantings, such as trees and shrubs, where low-maintenance, permanent mulch is needed.

lucerneLUCERNE

Lucerne hay and pellets are arguably the best mulches, as the lucerne is harvested when the plant is at its maximum level of nutrient content. While it fertilises your soil considerably, it also adds a rich layer of humus that builds soil structure and nutrient- and water-holding capacity. It breaks down in several months. Use lucerne on fruit and vegetable gardens, where it gives maximum benefit.

SCORIASCORIA

This is lightweight, porous, volcanic rock, which lasts indefinitely as mulch and is much easier to handle than gravels or pebbles. It adds very small amounts of mineral nutrients to the soil, so is definitely not a drain on soil fertility. Virtually all water that falls on scoria goes straight through to the soil, whereas organic mulches tend to absorb some of the water as it passes through. Scoria is best used around long-term plantings, such as trees and shrubs, where a low-maintenance, permanent mulch is needed.

teatreemulchTEA-TREE MULCH

Created from the residue left after processing tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) for its medicinal oil, this mulch lasts for about two years. As it’s very low in nutrients, it definitely should not be mixed into the soil surface. It gradually decomposes, adding nutrient and water holding capacity to your soil. Tea-tree mulch can be used on all garden plants, but is best utilised around long-term plantings, such as trees and shrubs, where its dark colour helps to keep the soil warm through winter.

TreeMulchFreshTREE AND SHRUB LOPPING RESIDUE

Pruning in urban areas, particularly cutting back vegetation under power lines, produces this type of mulch. This means it comes from a wide range of plant species, making it somewhat flexible in composition. It usually lasts for about two and a half years in the garden, adding small amounts of nutrients and soil-conditioning humus. Don’t ever use these pruning’s fresh, in case they contain toxins. Tree and shrub lopping residue can be used to mulch all garden plants, but is best used around long-term plantings, such as trees and shrubs.

All of the above mentioned Mulches are available from various garden retailers, landscape supply shops, tree-lopping companies and stock feed suppliers or just call Jim’s Mowing on 0800 454 654 or book online for a free quote, they will be happy to help.

Fire Retardant Trees and Plants

Nothing can guarantee that your home will be safe in a bush-fire but you can make the area around it less flammable by planting fire retardant plants and trees. bush fire

If you live in an area which is prone to fire, then you need to make a decision about what to keep near your house and what to remove. The most flammable trees are Cyprus, pines, eucalyptus, and some other natives, some of which have been known to explode once engulfed in flames. Tree selection around your home is a crucial factor as the right ones may slow and/or cool the fire down.

There are three core reasons that we put fire resistant trees around our house to make them safer;

  1. The fire retardant tree is a physical heat barrier to the heat blast coming through.
  2. The fire retardant tree acts as a green shield in front of your house and stops the embers from getting to your home. As the fire comes through fine embers fly up, and the trees that resist fire will help stop those embers from getting through.
  3. Many trees will actually stop the fire from moving through because the amount of moisture in the leaf tissue of the plant is enough to stop the fire.

While fire buffer zones are customarily cleared with sweeping lawns and sprinkler systems, there are also many fire-retardant trees and shrubs that can be comprised in garden and farm plantings. They are usually plants with high salt or moisture content and low volatile oil content in their leaves.

Preparation begins with recognizing fire threats on your land, taking into account slope, aspect, the accessibility of water and the build-up of fine fuels (dry mulch, fallen twigs, bark and leaves). On the whole, the steeper the slope, the faster a fire moves, so houses on steeper land need wider buffer zones.

A simple test to gauge the fire vulnerability of the trees and shrubs in your garden (when fire restrictions permit burning off), throw a small sample of foliage from each tree and shrub onto a fire and see how much it flares up. Consider removing plants with foliage which flares fiercely.

Maintaining your garden

It is vital to keep on top of growth and foliage. If you have huge amounts of leaf litter, particularly from eucalypts or from things like melaleucas, you creating a build-up of a fuel source for fire. It’s important to prune your native shrubs, to rake up the undergrowth. If you need to mulch, use things like gravel or pebbles rather than woodchips as wood chips just keep the fire going and actually invites it in to your house.

All plants will burn if the fire is hot enough but fire-retardant plants are less likely to transfer fire. In windbreaks and garden plantings, they contribute to slowing fire by decreasing wind speed, burning less eagerly and thwarting the spread of embers

Recommended Trees, Shrubs and Ground Cover

Provided below are charts of recommended fire resistant plants, intended as a guide only, check with your local council for information more specific to your area.

FlameTree

Brachychiton aecerifolius (Flame tree)

Evergreen Trees

Deciduous Trees

Melia azederach (Cape Lilac) Brachychiton aecerifolius (Flame tree)
Magnolia grandiflora Pyrus (most ornamental pears)
Magnolia Little Gem Ulmus chinensis (Chinese Elm)
Acacia howitii Cercis (Judus Tree)
Acmena smithii (Lilypily) Prunus (all including ornamental)
Cupaniopsis anacardiopsis (Tuckeroo) Malus (apple trees)
Eleocarpus Mullbery
Citrus trees Loquot
Arbutus Quercus (only the deciduous oak trees)
Feijoa Gleditzia
Ficus (all including edible) Ficus (all including edible)
magnolia tree

Magnolia Little Gem

Evergreen Shrubs

Aloe (all) Correa
Acacia iteaphyla Nerium (Oleander)
Scaevola crassifolia Viburnum tinus
Atriplex (saltbush Escallonia
Maireana (Cottonbush) Acacia Cyclops
Eremophila (Emu bush) Melaleuca nodosa
Syzygium (lilypilly) Photinia
Rhagodia (saltbush)Strelitzia Coprosma
Santolina Plectranthus
Leucophyta brownii  Senna (Silver Cassia)
nerium-oleander_cropped

Nerium (Oleander)

photinia_robusta_large-290x295

Photini

Ground Covers

Ajuga
Brachyscome
Dampiera
Scaevola aemula
Succulents (most)
Carpobrotus (Pigface)
Cotyledon
Ajuga australis
Myroporum
Nepeta (catmint)
Mesembryanthemum
Arctotis
damperia

Dampiera

aussie-rambler-1

Carpobrotus (Pigface)

Living in or near the Australian bush has many lifestyle benefits. It also brings the need to plan bush-fire defenses for your property. During extreme bush-fire events none of these nor other plant types will protect your property although a good design and use of the plants listed will, however, reduce the chance of being burnt out.

Fire is a fundamental part of the Australian environment and many native plants are adapted to fire. Some recuperate well after a fire, re-sprouting from buds on their trunks and lignotubers or they are protected during fires by dense bark. Others need fire for seed germination as it opens woody cones or heats seed stored in the ground.

While acknowledging the good things about fire, it is imperative to plan fire protection zones around your property so that you can enjoy living near the bush without feeling threatened by fire.

Tips for Preparing a Safe Home

  • Plant trees at least 5 m from house to allow clear access. Have paved sections such as paths and barbecue areas and/or a pebble garden with herbs near to the house.
  • Position pools, tennis courts, etc., between house and direct line of fire threat. A lawn is a clear space that can be used as a fire break.
  • Space trees and shrubs to avoid continuous canopy that may carry fire. Careful arrangement of plants is essential. Don’t have trees that overhang the house.
  • Use plants around the house that can be pruned when fire threatens. Trees and shrubs with lignotubers will re-sprout and recover quickly if it is necessary to cut them back hard in the face of threatening fire.
  • Monitor the growth of trees and shrubs so that pruning is maintained, dead limbs removed, leaves put into compost bins with lids.
  • Avoid combustible door mats and brush fences. Use draft sealers around doors and screens on windows.

It is important to note that even with all of these safe guards put into place, in the face of extreme bush-fires, EVACUATION is still the safest means of survival.

If you need help ensuring your properties best chance of survival during a bush-fire, feel free to contact Jim’s Mowing on 0800 454 654 or book online for a free quote.

Enhance Your Property by Creating a Pet Haven

pet

Going outside for a walk or to exercise is the highlight in any dog’s day. While they’re perfectly happy to lounge around the living room with you or make the rounds of the entire house, dogs also have a biological need to run around, chase each other, go crazy with toys, and just burn off their boundless energy through play.

Taking your pet pooch out to the park or around the neighbourhood for a daily walk is perfectly fine, but if you have space in your property, there’s no reason why you can’t give your pet—and yourself—a private space designed precisely for your enjoyment.

Here are 10 garden ideas that can help you create a personal paradise for yourself and your beloved dogs.

  1.  Create a path where the dogs can safely patrol. Dogs will naturally want to walk and sniff around, but they don’t have to zigzag all over the place. Construct paths that they can follow.
  2.  Lay down ground covers that are safe and comfortable for their paws. Artificial grass, gravel and cedar chips are examples of ground covers that dogs will love to walk over—and their paws will be a lot cleaner, too.
  3.  If your dogs love water, install a pool or fountain where they can wade and play. Also, make sure they have access to clean drinking water at different areas of the garden; drinking sufficient amounts of water helps dilute their urine, which means there’ll be fewer brown spots in the garden.pet friendly
  4.  Allow some open, grassy space for playing fetch, running around, and training with their owners. A stretch of grass is great for teaching dogs new tricks or commands, or just some rolling around and all kinds of antics.
  5.  Set up a spot where dogs are allowed to dig to their heart’s content, like a big patch of sand. Face it—dogs will want to dig. Encourage the dogs to dig in this particular spot to their heart’s content, and they won’t go uprooting plants and exposing mounds of earth where they shouldn’t.
  6.  Provide a shady spot where they can rest and cool down after rigorous activity. Dogs can overheat from too much exercise, so this spot will be perfect in ensuring that their playtime is safe.
  7.  If you have flowers or vegetables that need protecting, plant them in containers or raised beds, and surround them with plants that can turn dogs away. Prickly plants, or ones that give off odours that dogs don’t like, can keep them away from areas that are off-limits.
  8.  Install a sturdy fence all around the garden to keep the dogs from ending up out on the streets or in the neighbour’s yard. While letting your dogs go off leash is the point of the garden, you need to keep them securely inside your property for their safety.
  9.  Leave little pockets of space or windows on the fence where your dogs can peek and rub noses with the neighbour’s dogs (if they get along). This can help with the dogs’ socialization—and they won’t go destroying fences and making openings of their own just to say hi to the dogs next door.dog pool
  10. Make sure that there are no toxic plants anywhere in the garden. Dogs will eat anything that catches their attention in a second, so be sure to keep potentially harmful vegetation out of your garden at all times.

A carefully designed garden for you, and your dogs’ enjoyment requires regular maintenance, but you won’t have to take it all on by yourself—not when there are reliable local landscaping and lawn care specialists who can keep the pooch paradise clean, healthy, and looking sharp at all times.

To get your free quote, give Jim’s Mowing a call on 0800 454 654 or book online.

Citrus Gall Wasp

citrus gall wasp

Female Citrus Gall Wasp laying eggs

Many of our more determined garden pests are not native to Australia but the Citrus Gall Wasp (Bruchophagus fellis) is definitely an Australian grown garden variety pest. Initially, this native wasp was partial to Queensland and northern New South Wales and its favoured congregation was native finger limes.  But the citrus gall wasp has quickly adapted to the broader variety of citrus fruits. Since the 1990’s it has successfully journeyed from Queensland, through NSW and can now be found as far south as Melbourne where it is virtually rampant on the iconic back yard lemon tree.

Adult citrus gall wasps are rarely seen as they are less than 3mm in size. The adults are meager flyers but can be windblown from other citrus trees nearby. The adult wasps mate in early to late spring when the female implants her eggs in the citrus tree that she herself emerged from just days before.  Often the larvae are already present in newly purchased citrus trees in spring.  The wasp larvae grow within the soft stem tissue for 9 to 12 months until they too pupate and emerge as adult wasps the next year.

Plants affected: All citrus trees, particularly lemons and grapefruit.

Damage Caused:

Fresh gall on citrus tree caused by citrus gall wasp larvae2

Wasp larvae growing inside the stem

The wasp larvae grow within the citrus stems until late summer when gardeners begin to notice unpleasant galls appearing on their trees.  These galls or calluses are formed in response to the presence of the feeding larvae. Galls cannot be ‘cured’ or reversed.  Old galls are unsightly but are also empty as the adult wasp will have left through the tiny exit holes.  Developing galls can be removed but this may also mean the forfeiture of developing fruit at the end of the infected stem. Citrus gall is more damaging to younger citrus trees than older trees.

Control Methods: Controlling citrus gall wasp can be problematic but damage can be minimized by:

  • Avoiding high nitrogen fertilizer in spring as this promotes soft sappy growth – just perfect for the egg laying stage. Feed trees in late autumn and early winter as an alternative.
  • Removing all newly formed galls that don’t show signs of exit holes before the end of winter. Old galls have already been exited.
  • Hanging yellow sticky traps inside infested trees from mid-August to trap emerging adult wasps. The yellow is an attractant and the sticky traps are impossible for the wasp to escape. Do not leave on after November as the wasps are no longer about and you may
    baby gall wasps

    Citrus Gall Wasp larvae hatching

    unintentionally trap valuable insects and even small birds.

  • Destroying plague-ridden stems by burning or soaking in water for a fortnight then bagging.

If you need help dealing with these ghastly creatures please don’t hesitate to call Jim’s Mowing on 0800 454 654 or book online for a free quote.

7 Household Products That Kill & Control Weeds

HowToKillWeeds

We’ve seen it too many times, beautiful flowers trying to grow and pesky weeds coming a long and destroying the beauty with their uncontrollable hunger for destruction. Luckily, you don’t have to spend a lot of money on weed control. These are 7 household products you can use to kill or control weeds in your garden.

  1. Shower curtains. Next time you splurge for a new shower curtain, don’t just throw your old one out, use it to control weeds in your backyard! Simply place the shower curtain under mulch to prevent weeds from growing through.
  2. After you throw your next party and have an extra half of bottle of vodka laying around, try using it to kill weeds. Mix 30ml Vodka with a couple of drops of dish soap and 2 cups water in a small spray bottle and spray the mixture directly on to the weed leaves until it runs off. Do this when it’s sunny, because the purpose of the mix is to dehydrate the weeds in sunlight and it may not be as effective in the shade.
  3. Bleach is too harsh for your garden, but if you have weeds growing up through cracks in footpaths or walkways, you can try pouring just a bit of bleach directly on to them to kill the weeds.
  4. Salt is another household item that is great for ridding your footpath of the pesky weeds that pop up in between cracks, it always works great to kill unwanted grass that springs up. Boil 2 cups water mixed with 1 cup of salt and pour the boiling mix directly on the weeds.
  5. Carpet pieces.If you’ve just redone your carpet and have some scraps laying around, use them under straw or mulch in your garden for a weed-less path. Place the scraps upside down under mulch. You can also use the smallest pieces for actual mulch in a veggie garden.
  6. Baking soda.As if this miracle product didn’t already have enough uses, now we know we can use it for a safe, effective way of controlling weeds. Sprinkle baking soda by the handful onto concrete and sweep into cracks where weeds are growing. The powder will make it much drier and harder for the weeds to grow, basically snuffing them out.
  7. 2-litre bottles.If you do choose to use herbicides, try using bottles to make a more controlled application. Single out the weed you want to kill and cut a 2-litre bottle in half, place the upper half of the bottle over the weed. Aim the wand in to the opening of the bottle and spray. Doing this protects all of the plants you DON’T want to harm while you’re spraying.

Call Jim’s Mowing on 0800 454 654  for all of your gardening needs or simply Book Online for a free, no-obligation quote!

The Scourge Of Aphids And How To Manage Them

aphids

We’ve all heard of them. We all hope they never rear their destructive heads. Until the one day you walk out into your beautiful garden to find it teeming with life, not the stoic green plants you have come to cherish like a member of the family but the minuscule leaf dwelling bugs that are the plague of any home gardener’s life.

The problems aphids present are numerous. They feed on your plants and literally suck the life right out of them causing them to lose that healthy green glow. Aphids produce a waste product called honeydew. It is a sweet, sticky substance that can become a danger to your garden as well. The sticky waste can mold and turn black which in turn can build up and block light from reaching your plants. Aphids reproduce quickly, a few days is enough to produce a new generation. A handful of Aphids one day can turn into a swarm that terrorizes your garden in just a weeks’ time.

Leaving this problem unchecked ensures it will get worse and could ultimately lead to the death of the entire garden. It’s important not to delay, what may seem like a mere annoyance at first can quickly turn into a garden threatening problem.

So how do we combat these little terrors? You could turn to pesticides but if this is a vegetable garden pesticides may not be an option. Even if the garden is strictly for flowers there are drawbacks to using pesticides. There is always the risk that pesticides could kill the bugs that are helping keep the aphid population low. Because of this, spraying pesticides could result in even more garden destruction than before.

A natural remedy may be the best option in this case. Aphids have natural predators whose interests for this short time align with yours. Encouraging lady bugs to hang around your garden is one natural remedy. Ladybugs use pollen as a food source. You can increase the ladybug traffic by planting cilantro, dill, geraniums, and tansies. These are all plants that Ladybugs would be attracted to.

Try Neem oil derived from the Neem Tree. It has both insecticide and fungicide properties, and systemic benefits (that is the plant can absorb it without harm and so can control insects even without direct contact).

“Organic Gardening” magazine also recommends their “Kitchen insect spray” – made by combining a garlic bulb, a small onion, and 1 teaspoon of cayenne pepper in a food processor/blender.  Process into a paste and add about 1 litre of water then steep for 1 hour. Strain the mixture through a cheesecloth, then add a tablespoon of dishwashing liquid and mix again. This will keep for up to 1 week in the fridge.

An added problem is that other insects enjoy this sweet honey that aphid’s secrete. Ants in particular are fond of the sweet waste so it is natural to think they will set out to protect the producers of their sweet treat. The simplest way to deal with your garden ant problem is by using a mixture of sugar (powdered preferable but not necessary) and borax and leave in tiny dishes around the ant infested area. The ants will devour the sugary treat unaware of the deadly (to ants not us) borax lurking within the mixture and when they return their sweet prize to the nest the borax will run its course. Small amounts of Borax are found in some teeth whitening formulas so rest assured, you and your family are not in danger when using this sugar/borax method.

With just a few easy to follow steps you can ensure your garden stays aphid free and continues producing those favorite foods you love to grow yourself and that those beautiful plants will thrive all season long.

Jim’s Mowing can help you with all of your gardening requirements, just call on 0800 454 654 or book online for a free, no-obligation quote!

aphids-3

How To Combat Fruit Fly

Fruit fly-on peach

Yes you know them, those annoying little flies that are not only destructive, a nuisance but also unsanitary as they sometimes carry harmful bacteria.

In Australia, fruit flies are a cause of great distress and annoyance to a lot of home garden owners as they are known to destroy a range of nurtured vegetable and fruit crops within a short space of time.

Because the entire life cycle of the fruit fly takes between 1-2 weeks, they are known to increase rapidly in number with the female fruit flies laying up to 500 eggs at a time in favorable breeding areas or grounds.

How then can the infestation of fruit flies in our gardens be combated especially as they seem to multiply before our very own eyes?

 1. Destruction of feeding and breeding ground (source of attraction)

Fruit flies are majorly attracted to fruits and vegetables that are overripe. Care should be taken to pick out fruits and vegetables as soon as they become ripe. Rotten fruit, vegetable or plant material should not be left in the garden.

A clean garden free of debris is also important as fruit flies are known to live through the winter within them.

Finally, engage in proper compost management as fruit flies are greatly attracted to compost. For this reason, ensure that compost is at all times aerated and possibly contained or covered with a lid so as to reduce the fruit flies.

pheromone trap fruit flies

Pheromone Trap Fruit Flies

 2.  Using a pheromone trap

The pheromone trap is a successful form of mating disruption thus impeding egg-laying by the female fruit flies.

The concept behind the pheromone trap is that the male fruit flies are attracted to a powder containing the pheromone which is a female attractant. With the pheromone on the bodies of the male fruit flies, other males are attracted to them hence mating process is disrupted and egg-laying hindered. The effectiveness of the pheromone traps is in its ability to travel over long distances.

 3.  Use of protein-based baits

Because fruit flies need protein rich food to mature and sustain them, protein based baits (solution of protein and insecticide in water) are used to attract both male and female.

The protein-based bait is spot sprayed every two meters apart for effectiveness. After feeding on the droplets of the dispersed product, the fruit flies are killed. This method is intended for fruit fly control and the baits need to be changed every week.

4.  Exclusion method

This method of fruit fly control using exclusion bags or mesh over ripening fruits prevents the female fruit fly from getting to and laying her eggs in the fruit.

It is more effective to combine this method with the use of traps.

In conclusion, educate your neighbors on these methods of combating fruit flies such that with a wider area of kill, your fruit, vegetables and indeed whole garden is fruit fly free.  And of course, if Jim’s Mowing and Gardening team can help maintain your garden, as a one-off clean up or regular visits, don’t hesitate to call on 0800 454 654 or book online.