Get to Know the Best Flowering Trees in Australia

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50-SEEDS-Chinese-Crape-Myrtle-Lagerstroemia-indica-Tree-Seeds-bonsai-flower-Seeds-Free-shipping

Purple Lagerstroemia Indica

Lagerstroemia-indica-Bergerac-Crepe-Myrtle

Pink Lagerstroemia Indica

Flowering trees offer a different kind of beauty to the exterior space of various properties; what’s even nicer about them is they often change hues over time. In Australia, there’s a diverse mix of flowering trees that homeowners can select from to improve the aesthetic appeal of their outdoor space, and among the best flowering trees in the country (and the rest of the world, actually) are crepe myrtles which reach different heights and spreads, and come in different variants.

Crepe myrtles or Lagerstroemia indica are native to eastern Asia and Australia and they are distinguished by their vase-shape and trusses of white, different depths of pink, and purple flowers that have a crepe-like texture, which typically appear late in the summer. These flowering trees are easily pruned to maintain their beautiful, natural shape, and when summer turns to autumn, the leaves turn into a visual delight of yellow green, yellow, orange (rust) and red before they actually fall. And in addition to their pretty flowers and the changing colours of their leaves, crepe myrtles also look particularly nice because of their coloured, smooth, mottled trunks.

The crepe myrtle is a favourite among gardeners, particularly the native and Indian Summer range, because they grow easily and are resistant to powdery

crepe myrtle

White Lagerstroemia Indica

mildew, a fungal disease that often attacks older crepe varieties. Likewise, they have good cold tolerance — they don’t require special care when warm weather turns cool.

To keep these flowering trees healthy, Jim’s Mowing advises keeping them properly hydrated, especially in the summer. Make sure that you water them long and deeply to encourage roots to go deeper as well and have the ability to “forage” for additional moisture; this is so that even when the top soil is parched, these trees will continue to grow and yield the beauty they are known for.

Autum foliage of the crepe Myrtle

Autumn Foliage of the Lagerstroemia Indica

And to further reduce the risk of powdery mildew, make sure that there’s good air circulation in the garden. As for weeds that like to grow at the base of the tree, aside from strategic mowing, the introduction of fresh mulch can take care of them. Meanwhile, to encourage fresh growth and maintain the nice vase shape they have, especially during the turnover of seasons, prune wilted leaves and branches — when you do so, you can expect new flowers to sprout soon.

Crepe myrtles can be found in all nurseries in the country; they are very affordable — just about $20 a pot for really young seedlings.

For all of your gardening needs, call Jim’s Mowing on 0800 454 654 or book online for a free, no-obligation quote!

Basic Information On Soil, Mulch and Compost

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soil-photo

You can expect soil, mulch and compost to feature regularly in a gardener’s thoughts and conversations. You can expect to discuss them too if you’ve been fortunate enough to have sufficient lawn or yard space in your property. At the very least, learn the fundamentals so you can actively work toward a thriving garden whether you do the bulk of the gardening work yourself or hire the pros to take care of it for you.

Lots of people don’t mind dealing with soil and mulch; compost, however, is something else. Many tend to be leery about tangling with it. They find it technical and gross, definitely a double whammy. However, it does offer such great benefits that they understand that it’s really worth the bother. Not only does it enrich the soil; it also reduces household waste.

What should you know about soil, mulch and compost? Let’s start with mulching. It is an important aspect of gardening. Mulch helps retain moisture and nutrients in the soil as well as prevent weed infestation. It also helps that it makes the garden look even better. The following are basic instructions.

mulchBefore you add mulch, you should:

  • Get rid of weeds, grass, and dead plants from your garden.
  • Make sure that your new plants are in place.
  • Have your irrigation system

You can apply mulch any time, but it works best to add it before the dry season.

As for the soil, it’s not really as straightforward as it seems. For instance, dried soil isn’t easy to hydrate as it actually repels water, so you just end up wasting any you put on it. You need soil additives to do the work successfully. These are wetting agents, which enable the water to soak in, and water retention products which store water for later release. Water crystals, for instance, absorb water, gradually releasing it over time when the soil around them begins to dry.

On the subject of compost, the following are some of the materials suitable for creating it:Compost-Bin jpg

  • Vegetable and fruit rinds and peelings
  • Grass clippings, plant pruning’s, fallen leaves and flowers
  • Egg shells
  • Used tea bags
  • Coffee grounds
  • Vacuum dust
  • Straw
  • Shredded paper and cardboard

You can purchase a composting bin or build one yourself. There are different ways to compost, but they have to be carried out correctly for them to be effective as well as to prevent foul smells and pests.

There’s obviously more to laying the groundwork for your garden than meets the eye. With the above information, you at least now have a basic understanding of what goes into it.

If you would like any assistance in your garden, Jim’s Mowing will be glad to help. Call us on 0800 454 654 or book online for a free, no-obligation quote.

A Guide to Pruning

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A Guide To Pruning New Zealand Native Plants

Pruned roses

Native New Zealand plants are delightful to have in your garden nevertheless they are not maintenance free. While the majority of New Zealand plants need less care than many exotic plants, they do profit greatly from some fertilizing, pruning and watering. Pruning promotes a healthy growth, extends the life of short lived plants and enhances a grander display of flowers.

Types of Pruning

Tip Pruning

To promote lateral growth and therefore bushier plants, regular tip pruning of the soft new growth is favoured over infrequent hard pruning and should be initiated when plants are very young, desirably at seedling or rooted cutting stage. Tip pruning is best commenced after flowering and during the growing season for faster outcomes. Pruning too late in the season bares the risk of decreasing the next season’s flowers.  Constantly carry secateurs when you’re out and about in the garden as this allows you to effortlessly practice tip pruning.

Universal Pruning

When pruning to regulate unwanted growth, it is better to only make clean cuts that slope away from buds. Cut close and parallel to existing branches and leaf nodes, but not level with them.

With large branches, first cut the bark below, then make the top cut, this prevents tearing of the bark as the branch falls away.

Use the plant’s natural habit as a guide. If it is slow-growing, compact and well-shaped, then only light pruning is required to tidy it

up. If it is fast growing, then further pinching-out or pruning should be carried out. Prune the whole shrub all at once, that way even growth will ensue all over the plant.

It is best not to prune in winter as the resulting new growth can easily be damaged by cold temperatures. When cutting into plants that flower on old wood such as many Leptospermums, Melaleucas and Hakeas, be conscious that you may lose next year’s flowers.

Pruning Screen and Hedge Plants

pruning

Successful screen and hedge plants need to be given consistent but relatively delicate pruning all over to encourage and preserve dense growth. If you are using this type of pruning for Lilly pillies such as:  Syzygium smithii and various forms, it will keep them bushy to the ground.

Pruning to Mend Damage

When branches are broken or attacked by insects and/or borers, the branch should be pruned back to clean unspoiled wood and close to a limb or leaf node. If left in a damaged state, branches are prone to infection and dying back.

Pruning to Improve Blossoming

Elimination of old flowers should be commenced after the flower is finished. This way the plant does not put its vitality into producing seed. It also has the same effect as tip pruning as it enhances new lateral growth and hence more flowers next season. Callistemons, and fine-leaved Melaleucas definitely benefit from having the top two thirds of their flowers detached and is an essential pruning action.

Pruning to Decrease New Growth

Pruning flush with the trunk should result in no new leaf growth.  This is ideal if you are pruning lower branches off a shrub to make it more tree like.

Pruning When Direr Outcomes Are Needed

Trying to keep bulky plants to a convenient size by pruning is hard work and is best done frequently through-out the year. Be aware that hard pruning into old wood may possibly kill some plants. If you have any old woody shrubs that are more of a monstrosity than an asset in the garden, arm yourself with secateurs and a pruning saw and practice on it.

The simplest way to invigorate Callistemons, fine leaved Melaleucas and Leptospermums is to lop them off at ground level. If carried out in spring they will rapidly put out new shoots and grow into bushy shrubs with striking healthy foliage. Water well to maximise new growth. Radical pruning of older more senile Grevillea

s is not always successful. If the plant has gotten to the point where you have nothing to lose, prune hard and see what happens.

When pruning large weighty branches, make the initial cut about 150 mm further out than where you need to make the final cut. When the heavy branch has been removed, make an additional cut to clean up, this minimises tearing of the bark. Note that untidy cuts or torn bark can create entry points of fungal diseases and other such hazardous elements.

Maintaining Your Pruning Tools

Be sure to use sharp tools and disinfect them by scrubbing with methylated spirits. Blunted tools leave ragged edges on the branch and are an invitation for disease to attack your plants.

Don’t have the required tools or enough time? You can always take the hassle out of pruning and give Jim’s Mowing a call on 0800 454 654 or book online for a free, no obligation quote!

Adding a Splash of Colour to Your Garden

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If your garden is looking a little dull, here are some great tips that will really stimulate your senses. Adding colour to your garden creates a
visual oasis that separates one’s thoughts from everyday stresses. If you want to see colour on a lavish scale, there is a smorgasbord of bedding plants available including mixing new varieties with old favourites.

Bedding displays have been popular since the Victorian era, when striking colours and intricate patterns became a fashionable part of high-style horticulture. With a contemporary layout and the right components, you can achieve an overriding sense of colour, scents and fun in your garden.

One of the challenges in creating mass displays is avoiding repetition therefor it is recommended to use common plants in uncommon ways. Dusty Miller (Centaurea cineraria) is as oldie but goodie, and can be grown as a column for a unique visual effect.

Planting Cineraria (Pericallis) at the base of the column can really set it off visually. Cineraria (Pericallis), a very familiar plant, can take on a life of its own when mass-planted.

Ornamental cabbages (Ornamental Cabbage – Brassica oleracea) are a fantastic as a form of display as they are beautifully detailed and also edible. When you are using plants like these ornamental cabbages, one of the things to avoid is the ‘hundreds and thousands’ effect. By separating colours into distinct bands and mass-planting them, you can really heighten the difference between the diverse varieties.

Nemesia is a stunning flower which comes in a variety of colours and only requires free drainage and a frost-free climate to grow. This plant is great for bringing bees to the garden, but is unfortunately not used very often.

Scent is also an important factor to consider when decorating your garden, every individual gardener will have their own preference, but the Matthiola often cultivated for its heavy scent and variety of colours.

Your garden is like a blank canvas waiting for you to add the colour, all you need to do is decide what colours you want and where to display them. For a smooth and subtle effect, you could combine pastels with other plants that have strong primary colours.

The next step is adding features to your garden, for example, a large ornamental cask that can be planted with Violas giving the impression that it is full to the brim with paint and is spilling over. Adding features does not have to be expensive, you can use old wheelbarrows, tyres, pallets, basically anything you can imagine.

It’s not just annual flowers that can generate a great effect in a bedding display, you can also include many different perennials. It’s imperative to know your garden’s microclimate. Primulas (Poison Primrose – Primula obconica) tend to last longer if they get less than six hours of sunshine.

By contrast, another bed might be warm, sunny and dry which is a perfect place to grow succulents, for example, Kalanchoe which is very rarely grown as a bedding plant, but great to work with as it is very enduring and needs very little water or care. At the end of their display, you can break off individual leaves and propagate them in potting mix to grow new plants.

Happy planning and planting!  And remember, if you need any help in designing, planting or maintaining your garden, call your local Jim’s Mowing team on 0800 454 654 or book online for a free quote!  We’d be happy to help.

Nemesia Plant

Nemesia

cabbage-patch-ornamental

Ornamental Cabbages

Cineraria

Cineraria

Dusty Miller

Dusty Miller

Matthiola Incana

Matthiola Incana

Wheelbarrow Planted with Flowers

Wheelbarrow Planter Box

Matthiola Regal White

Matthiola Regal White

primrosesdanovamix

Primulas

Violas planted in Cask

Violas planted in Cask

Kalanchoe succulents

Kalanchoe succulents

Car covered in flowers and plants.

Flower covered car

Overcoming the Challenges of Gardening by the Seaside

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You wake up greeted by a stunning view and are lulled to sleep by the gentle sound the sea makes when it caresses the beach. Is it too much to ask for a blooming garden?

beach-garden

Almost all coastal property owners will tell you that gardening is like a losing battle. Simply put, the elements that make a coastal property appealing are the same elements that make seaside gardening difficult. You’ve got to deal with sandy soil, a huge amount of salt and heat, and onshore winds.

These elements combined can burn leaves and inhibit the growth of plants. But rather than accepting and being resigned to your fate as a shoreline property dweller, you can take a few steps in order to make your dream of having a beautiful coastal garden come true. The key here is to find suitable plants and make do with the available conditions.

One of the first things that you need to deal with is the soil quality. For example, if you live along Perth’s coastal area, it is highly likely that the soil on your property is more alkaline.

This requires improving soil quality through the addition of both organic matter and wetting agents. These will improve the structure of the soil as well as its capacity to hold water.

In adding organic matter, make sure that you dig this into the ground instead of simply spreading it on top of the soil. This will help prevent the growth of weeds.

It is also advisable to apply a thick layer of mulch at least once a year in order to contain evaporation and serve as a cushion for the ground against the wind.

And speaking of winds, you have to minimise the effects of these on the growth of your plants. The best way to do that would be to create windbreaks by using strategically positioned trees and shrubs around the garden.

beach gardenIn building windbreaks, you can try to combine trees and shrubs with any material you have on your property. You may also use fences and screens, but be sure to leave a gap to prevent turbulence. Keep the harsh wind and intense sunlight away from your plants.

When it comes to selecting plants for your coastal gardens, opt for native plants instead of having a lawn and a garden of flowering plants. Native plants can easily handle the conditions in your area and can provide both food and home for local birds and animals. Plus, these plants are more tolerant to drought and require little water.

For professional assistance with your garden planning and design, planting and maintenance, please don’t hesitate to call Jim’s Mowing & Gardening on 0800 454 654 or book online today!

Tips for Beautiful Roses

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Climber Rose varieties

Climbing Rose varieties

The reward for gaining and applying the relevant knowledge about rose gardening is big, beautiful rose bushes, laden with colourful and fragrant roses. Here we will help you learn all about pruning roses, preparing rose beds, types of roses and the best way to look after them.

The types of rose bushes you can choose from are; Shrub Roses, Miniature Roses, Climber, Grandiflora, Floribunda and Rugosa. Be aware that some of these are quite hardy while others can be sensitive, so be sure to choose wisely and buy ones that are suited to your garden and lifestyle.

Caring for Your Roses

Caring for rose bushes is vital to their general health and vigour, as well as their appearance, below are some helpful guides.

Planting

Plant roses where they will collect a minimum of 5 to 6 hours of full sun per day. Roses grown in weak sun may not die at once, but they weaken progressively. Give them plenty of organic matter when planting and don’t crowd them.

Wear sturdy gloves to shield your hands from prickly thorns and have a hose or bucket of water and all your planting utensils nearby. Keep your bare-root rose in water until you are ready to place it in the ground.

Minature Rose varieties

Minature Rose varieties

Roses can be cut back and moved in either spring or winter, definitely not in summer, as they may suffer and die in the high temperature. Large rose canes can be cut back by as much as two thirds, and smaller ones to within 6 to 12 inches of the ground.

When you relocate your roses, be sure to dig a much bigger hole than you think you need (for most types, the planting hole should be about 15 to 18 inches wide) and add plenty of organic matter such as compost or aged manure.

Watering

Roses require at least an inch of water weekly throughout their growing season, beginning in spring or following spring planting. Rose bushes are very prone to fungal diseases, such as black spot and powdery mildew, especially when their foliage is kept too wet.

Attentively water your roses, ensure that you soak the entire root zone at least twice a week in dry weather. Elude frequent shallow sprinklings, which won’t reach the deeper roots and may encourage fungus. Roses do best with 90 inches of rain per year, so unless you live in a rain forest, water regularly, although If adequate drainage is not provided, they can easily drown. The ideal soil is rich and loose, with good drainage. One of the worst mistakes you can make is to not provide adequate drainage.

Use mulch to help save water, decrease stress, and encourage healthy growth, apply a 2 to 4 inch layer of chopped and shredded leaves, grass clippings, or shredded bark around the base of your roses. Allow about an inch of space between the mulch and the base stem of the plant.

Florabunda Roses

Florabunda Roses “French Lace Rose”

Feeding

Feed roses on a regular basis before and throughout the blooming cycle (avoid chemical fertilizers and pesticides if you’re harvesting for the kitchen), a slow releasing fertilizer is best or apply a balanced granular fertilizer (5-10-5 or 5-10-10) minimum of once a month during the hotter months. Allow ¾ to 1 cup for each bush, and sprinkle it around the drip line, not against the stem. Also apply an additional tablespoon of Epsom salts along with your fertilizer; the magnesium sulphate will encourage new growth from the bottom of the bush.

Pruning

Prune roses every spring and terminate all old or diseased plant material. Start with pruning shears for smaller growth. Use loppers, (the bigger, long-handle shears) for growth that is more than half an inch thick. A small pruning saw is handy, as it cuts on both the push and the pull.

Deadhead religiously and keep beds clean. Every leaf has a growth bud, so removing old flower blossoms encourages the plant to make more flowers instead of using the energy to make seeds. Clean away from around the base of the rosebushes as any trimmed debris that can harbor disease and insects. Stop deadheading all your rose plants 3 to 4 weeks before winter so

Grandiflora Roses

Grandiflora Roses

as not to encourage new growth at a time when new shoots may be damaged by the cold.

Preparing Your Roses for Winter

Do not prune roses in the winter, simply cut off any dead or diseased canes. Stop fertilizing 6 weeks prior to winter but continue watering during dry weather to help keep plants fortified. Mulch or add compost before the weather turns too cold. Compost, mulch, dry wood chips or chopped leaves are all good for insulating your rose beds.

Pests and Diseases

Good gardening practices such as removing dead leaves and canes will help reduce pests. Find out which pests are most prevalent in your area by checking with your local nursery. Here are some of the more common problems:

  • Stem Borers
  • Japanese Beetles
  • Aphids
  • Black Spot/Powdery Mildew
  • Spider Mites

Roses are a delectable treat for pests so try planting lavender near your roses. Not only will you have the makings of a nice potpourri, but the scent of lavender discourages most pests.

Rugosa Roses

Rugosa Roses

Fun Fact

Rugosa roses are overloaded with vitamins and used for jams, jellies, syrups, pies, teas, and wine. The petals can be tossed into salads for colour, utilized to decorate cakes, or distilled to make rose water.

For expert assistance with pruning your precious roses, or any other gardening maintenance, please contact Jim’s Mowing on 0800 454 654 or book online today!

Shrub Roses

Shrub Rose Display