Featuring Water Plants In Your Garden

water features

If you’re interested in having a water feature in your garden, you need to make sure that you plan for it well. It’s not just about its design and layout or the water plants you’re going to use; it’s also about the impact of such an addition to your property. For instance, it’s not advisable at all to have one if you have little children — living with you or visiting often — to worry about.

If you’re pretty much decided, you need to visualise how you’ll go about creating your water feature. An example of a good water feature structure involves an above ground pool created with rolled chequer plate steel, about 90 cm in height and a metre across. The bottom is filled with compacted sand, serving as a base for a solid pond liner. The interior is lined with flexible poly-liner, which works to create a boggy or marshy area connecting the pond itself and the outer frame. The rigid liner goes into the centre of the frame and soil is added to fill the outer area of the bog zone.

water feature

Colocasia Esculenta

Some good choices to plant along the bog are Queensland Arrowroot (Canna edulis) and Green Taro (Colocasia esculenta). Both plants have edible roots. They’re also tall enough to provide shade for the other plants. You could also add a Samphire, the shoots of which you can also eat. Other possibilities include different kinds of mint, such as Chocolate Mint, Vietnamese Mint, and Basil Mint.

Inside the pond, you could place a wide but shallow terracotta bowl set on bricks, low enough so it’s submerged in the water, but almost skimming the surface. This provides the correct depth for Water Chestnuts, the foliage of which will push above the water. Besides having edible corms that can be harvested in the wintertime, it will also provide a frog habitat.

water lebanese crest

Lebanese Cress

You could put in some upside down terracotta pipes which will serve as planting pockets for even more edible water plants. Lebanese Cress, for one, is delicious and thrives well in little soil as it floats cheerfully on the water surface. Other salad greens you should consider adding are some Water Parsley and juicy English Watercress.

watercress

English Watercress

Now, another very valid concern when considering putting in a water feature is the mosquito population, definitely not something you want to encourage. It’s a good idea to add fish like Pygmy Perch to help eliminate mosquito larvae. Frogs and aquatic insects will also help, and pretty soon, you’ll have a thriving (not to mention edible) aquatic habitat to soothe the spirit, delight the eyes, and contribute to your dinner.

A good tip to keep in mind is to use rain water in filling your water feature. This is suitable for supporting fish right away. When you use tap water, you have to wait and let it stand for 24 hours in full sunlight to get rid of the chlorine.

Jim’s Mowing are the garden specialists and are happy to help with any gardening queries that you might have. Just call on 0800 454 654 or book online for your free, no-obligation quote.

Get to Know the Best Flowering Trees in Australia

50-SEEDS-Chinese-Crape-Myrtle-Lagerstroemia-indica-Tree-Seeds-bonsai-flower-Seeds-Free-shipping

Purple Lagerstroemia Indica

Lagerstroemia-indica-Bergerac-Crepe-Myrtle

Pink Lagerstroemia Indica

Flowering trees offer a different kind of beauty to the exterior space of various properties; what’s even nicer about them is they often change hues over time. In Australia, there’s a diverse mix of flowering trees that homeowners can select from to improve the aesthetic appeal of their outdoor space, and among the best flowering trees in the country (and the rest of the world, actually) are crepe myrtles which reach different heights and spreads, and come in different variants.

Crepe myrtles or Lagerstroemia indica are native to eastern Asia and Australia and they are distinguished by their vase-shape and trusses of white, different depths of pink, and purple flowers that have a crepe-like texture, which typically appear late in the summer. These flowering trees are easily pruned to maintain their beautiful, natural shape, and when summer turns to autumn, the leaves turn into a visual delight of yellow green, yellow, orange (rust) and red before they actually fall. And in addition to their pretty flowers and the changing colours of their leaves, crepe myrtles also look particularly nice because of their coloured, smooth, mottled trunks.

The crepe myrtle is a favourite among gardeners, particularly the native and Indian Summer range, because they grow easily and are resistant to powdery

crepe myrtle

White Lagerstroemia Indica

mildew, a fungal disease that often attacks older crepe varieties. Likewise, they have good cold tolerance — they don’t require special care when warm weather turns cool.

To keep these flowering trees healthy, Jim’s Mowing advises keeping them properly hydrated, especially in the summer. Make sure that you water them long and deeply to encourage roots to go deeper as well and have the ability to “forage” for additional moisture; this is so that even when the top soil is parched, these trees will continue to grow and yield the beauty they are known for.

Autum foliage of the crepe Myrtle

Autumn Foliage of the Lagerstroemia Indica

And to further reduce the risk of powdery mildew, make sure that there’s good air circulation in the garden. As for weeds that like to grow at the base of the tree, aside from strategic mowing, the introduction of fresh mulch can take care of them. Meanwhile, to encourage fresh growth and maintain the nice vase shape they have, especially during the turnover of seasons, prune wilted leaves and branches — when you do so, you can expect new flowers to sprout soon.

Crepe myrtles can be found in all nurseries in the country; they are very affordable — just about $20 a pot for really young seedlings.

For all of your gardening needs, call Jim’s Mowing on 0800 454 654 or book online for a free, no-obligation quote!

Basic Information On Soil, Mulch and Compost

soil-photo

You can expect soil, mulch and compost to feature regularly in a gardener’s thoughts and conversations. You can expect to discuss them too if you’ve been fortunate enough to have sufficient lawn or yard space in your property. At the very least, learn the fundamentals so you can actively work toward a thriving garden whether you do the bulk of the gardening work yourself or hire the pros to take care of it for you.

Lots of people don’t mind dealing with soil and mulch; compost, however, is something else. Many tend to be leery about tangling with it. They find it technical and gross, definitely a double whammy. However, it does offer such great benefits that they understand that it’s really worth the bother. Not only does it enrich the soil; it also reduces household waste.

What should you know about soil, mulch and compost? Let’s start with mulching. It is an important aspect of gardening. Mulch helps retain moisture and nutrients in the soil as well as prevent weed infestation. It also helps that it makes the garden look even better. The following are basic instructions.

mulchBefore you add mulch, you should:

  • Get rid of weeds, grass, and dead plants from your garden.
  • Make sure that your new plants are in place.
  • Have your irrigation system

You can apply mulch any time, but it works best to add it before the dry season.

As for the soil, it’s not really as straightforward as it seems. For instance, dried soil isn’t easy to hydrate as it actually repels water, so you just end up wasting any you put on it. You need soil additives to do the work successfully. These are wetting agents, which enable the water to soak in, and water retention products which store water for later release. Water crystals, for instance, absorb water, gradually releasing it over time when the soil around them begins to dry.

On the subject of compost, the following are some of the materials suitable for creating it:Compost-Bin jpg

  • Vegetable and fruit rinds and peelings
  • Grass clippings, plant pruning’s, fallen leaves and flowers
  • Egg shells
  • Used tea bags
  • Coffee grounds
  • Vacuum dust
  • Straw
  • Shredded paper and cardboard

You can purchase a composting bin or build one yourself. There are different ways to compost, but they have to be carried out correctly for them to be effective as well as to prevent foul smells and pests.

There’s obviously more to laying the groundwork for your garden than meets the eye. With the above information, you at least now have a basic understanding of what goes into it.

If you would like any assistance in your garden, Jim’s Mowing will be glad to help. Call us on 0800 454 654 or book online for a free, no-obligation quote.

A Guide to Pruning

A Guide To Pruning New Zealand Native Plants

Pruned roses

Native New Zealand plants are delightful to have in your garden nevertheless they are not maintenance free. While the majority of New Zealand plants need less care than many exotic plants, they do profit greatly from some fertilizing, pruning and watering. Pruning promotes a healthy growth, extends the life of short lived plants and enhances a grander display of flowers.

Types of Pruning

Tip Pruning

To promote lateral growth and therefore bushier plants, regular tip pruning of the soft new growth is favoured over infrequent hard pruning and should be initiated when plants are very young, desirably at seedling or rooted cutting stage. Tip pruning is best commenced after flowering and during the growing season for faster outcomes. Pruning too late in the season bares the risk of decreasing the next season’s flowers.  Constantly carry secateurs when you’re out and about in the garden as this allows you to effortlessly practice tip pruning.

Universal Pruning

When pruning to regulate unwanted growth, it is better to only make clean cuts that slope away from buds. Cut close and parallel to existing branches and leaf nodes, but not level with them.

With large branches, first cut the bark below, then make the top cut, this prevents tearing of the bark as the branch falls away.

Use the plant’s natural habit as a guide. If it is slow-growing, compact and well-shaped, then only light pruning is required to tidy it

up. If it is fast growing, then further pinching-out or pruning should be carried out. Prune the whole shrub all at once, that way even growth will ensue all over the plant.

It is best not to prune in winter as the resulting new growth can easily be damaged by cold temperatures. When cutting into plants that flower on old wood such as many Leptospermums, Melaleucas and Hakeas, be conscious that you may lose next year’s flowers.

Pruning Screen and Hedge Plants

pruning

Successful screen and hedge plants need to be given consistent but relatively delicate pruning all over to encourage and preserve dense growth. If you are using this type of pruning for Lilly pillies such as:  Syzygium smithii and various forms, it will keep them bushy to the ground.

Pruning to Mend Damage

When branches are broken or attacked by insects and/or borers, the branch should be pruned back to clean unspoiled wood and close to a limb or leaf node. If left in a damaged state, branches are prone to infection and dying back.

Pruning to Improve Blossoming

Elimination of old flowers should be commenced after the flower is finished. This way the plant does not put its vitality into producing seed. It also has the same effect as tip pruning as it enhances new lateral growth and hence more flowers next season. Callistemons, and fine-leaved Melaleucas definitely benefit from having the top two thirds of their flowers detached and is an essential pruning action.

Pruning to Decrease New Growth

Pruning flush with the trunk should result in no new leaf growth.  This is ideal if you are pruning lower branches off a shrub to make it more tree like.

Pruning When Direr Outcomes Are Needed

Trying to keep bulky plants to a convenient size by pruning is hard work and is best done frequently through-out the year. Be aware that hard pruning into old wood may possibly kill some plants. If you have any old woody shrubs that are more of a monstrosity than an asset in the garden, arm yourself with secateurs and a pruning saw and practice on it.

The simplest way to invigorate Callistemons, fine leaved Melaleucas and Leptospermums is to lop them off at ground level. If carried out in spring they will rapidly put out new shoots and grow into bushy shrubs with striking healthy foliage. Water well to maximise new growth. Radical pruning of older more senile Grevillea

s is not always successful. If the plant has gotten to the point where you have nothing to lose, prune hard and see what happens.

When pruning large weighty branches, make the initial cut about 150 mm further out than where you need to make the final cut. When the heavy branch has been removed, make an additional cut to clean up, this minimises tearing of the bark. Note that untidy cuts or torn bark can create entry points of fungal diseases and other such hazardous elements.

Maintaining Your Pruning Tools

Be sure to use sharp tools and disinfect them by scrubbing with methylated spirits. Blunted tools leave ragged edges on the branch and are an invitation for disease to attack your plants.

Don’t have the required tools or enough time? You can always take the hassle out of pruning and give Jim’s Mowing a call on 0800 454 654 or book online for a free, no obligation quote!

Adding a Splash of Colour to Your Garden

If your garden is looking a little dull, here are some great tips that will really stimulate your senses. Adding colour to your garden creates a
visual oasis that separates one’s thoughts from everyday stresses. If you want to see colour on a lavish scale, there is a smorgasbord of bedding plants available including mixing new varieties with old favourites.

Bedding displays have been popular since the Victorian era, when striking colours and intricate patterns became a fashionable part of high-style horticulture. With a contemporary layout and the right components, you can achieve an overriding sense of colour, scents and fun in your garden.

One of the challenges in creating mass displays is avoiding repetition therefor it is recommended to use common plants in uncommon ways. Dusty Miller (Centaurea cineraria) is as oldie but goodie, and can be grown as a column for a unique visual effect.

Planting Cineraria (Pericallis) at the base of the column can really set it off visually. Cineraria (Pericallis), a very familiar plant, can take on a life of its own when mass-planted.

Ornamental cabbages (Ornamental Cabbage – Brassica oleracea) are a fantastic as a form of display as they are beautifully detailed and also edible. When you are using plants like these ornamental cabbages, one of the things to avoid is the ‘hundreds and thousands’ effect. By separating colours into distinct bands and mass-planting them, you can really heighten the difference between the diverse varieties.

Nemesia is a stunning flower which comes in a variety of colours and only requires free drainage and a frost-free climate to grow. This plant is great for bringing bees to the garden, but is unfortunately not used very often.

Scent is also an important factor to consider when decorating your garden, every individual gardener will have their own preference, but the Matthiola often cultivated for its heavy scent and variety of colours.

Your garden is like a blank canvas waiting for you to add the colour, all you need to do is decide what colours you want and where to display them. For a smooth and subtle effect, you could combine pastels with other plants that have strong primary colours.

The next step is adding features to your garden, for example, a large ornamental cask that can be planted with Violas giving the impression that it is full to the brim with paint and is spilling over. Adding features does not have to be expensive, you can use old wheelbarrows, tyres, pallets, basically anything you can imagine.

It’s not just annual flowers that can generate a great effect in a bedding display, you can also include many different perennials. It’s imperative to know your garden’s microclimate. Primulas (Poison Primrose – Primula obconica) tend to last longer if they get less than six hours of sunshine.

By contrast, another bed might be warm, sunny and dry which is a perfect place to grow succulents, for example, Kalanchoe which is very rarely grown as a bedding plant, but great to work with as it is very enduring and needs very little water or care. At the end of their display, you can break off individual leaves and propagate them in potting mix to grow new plants.

Happy planning and planting!  And remember, if you need any help in designing, planting or maintaining your garden, call your local Jim’s Mowing team on 0800 454 654 or book online for a free quote!  We’d be happy to help.

Nemesia Plant

Nemesia

cabbage-patch-ornamental

Ornamental Cabbages

Cineraria

Cineraria

Dusty Miller

Dusty Miller

Matthiola Incana

Matthiola Incana

Wheelbarrow Planted with Flowers

Wheelbarrow Planter Box

Matthiola Regal White

Matthiola Regal White

primrosesdanovamix

Primulas

Violas planted in Cask

Violas planted in Cask

Kalanchoe succulents

Kalanchoe succulents

Car covered in flowers and plants.

Flower covered car