A Guide to Pruning
A Guide To Pruning New Zealand Native Plants
Native New Zealand plants are delightful to have in your garden nevertheless they are not maintenance free. While the majority of New Zealand plants need less care than many exotic plants, they do profit greatly from some fertilizing, pruning and watering. Pruning promotes a healthy growth, extends the life of short lived plants and enhances a grander display of flowers.
Types of Pruning
Tip Pruning
To promote lateral growth and therefore bushier plants, regular tip pruning of the soft new growth is favoured over infrequent hard pruning and should be initiated when plants are very young, desirably at seedling or rooted cutting stage. Tip pruning is best commenced after flowering and during the growing season for faster outcomes. Pruning too late in the season bares the risk of decreasing the next season’s flowers. Constantly carry secateurs when you’re out and about in the garden as this allows you to effortlessly practice tip pruning.
Universal Pruning
When pruning to regulate unwanted growth, it is better to only make clean cuts that slope away from buds. Cut close and parallel to existing branches and leaf nodes, but not level with them.
With large branches, first cut the bark below, then make the top cut, this prevents tearing of the bark as the branch falls away.
Use the plant’s natural habit as a guide. If it is slow-growing, compact and well-shaped, then only light pruning is required to tidy it
up. If it is fast growing, then further pinching-out or pruning should be carried out. Prune the whole shrub all at once, that way even growth will ensue all over the plant.
It is best not to prune in winter as the resulting new growth can easily be damaged by cold temperatures. When cutting into plants that flower on old wood such as many Leptospermums, Melaleucas and Hakeas, be conscious that you may lose next year’s flowers.
Pruning Screen and Hedge Plants
Successful screen and hedge plants need to be given consistent but relatively delicate pruning all over to encourage and preserve dense growth. If you are using this type of pruning for Lilly pillies such as: Syzygium smithii and various forms, it will keep them bushy to the ground.
Pruning to Mend Damage
When branches are broken or attacked by insects and/or borers, the branch should be pruned back to clean unspoiled wood and close to a limb or leaf node. If left in a damaged state, branches are prone to infection and dying back.
Pruning to Improve Blossoming
Elimination of old flowers should be commenced after the flower is finished. This way the plant does not put its vitality into producing seed. It also has the same effect as tip pruning as it enhances new lateral growth and hence more flowers next season. Callistemons, and fine-leaved Melaleucas definitely benefit from having the top two thirds of their flowers detached and is an essential pruning action.
Pruning to Decrease New Growth
Pruning flush with the trunk should result in no new leaf growth. This is ideal if you are pruning lower branches off a shrub to make it more tree like.
Pruning When Direr Outcomes Are Needed
Trying to keep bulky plants to a convenient size by pruning is hard work and is best done frequently through-out the year. Be aware that hard pruning into old wood may possibly kill some plants. If you have any old woody shrubs that are more of a monstrosity than an asset in the garden, arm yourself with secateurs and a pruning saw and practice on it.
The simplest way to invigorate Callistemons, fine leaved Melaleucas and Leptospermums is to lop them off at ground level. If carried out in spring they will rapidly put out new shoots and grow into bushy shrubs with striking healthy foliage. Water well to maximise new growth. Radical pruning of older more senile Grevillea
s is not always successful. If the plant has gotten to the point where you have nothing to lose, prune hard and see what happens.
When pruning large weighty branches, make the initial cut about 150 mm further out than where you need to make the final cut. When the heavy branch has been removed, make an additional cut to clean up, this minimises tearing of the bark. Note that untidy cuts or torn bark can create entry points of fungal diseases and other such hazardous elements.
Maintaining Your Pruning Tools
Be sure to use sharp tools and disinfect them by scrubbing with methylated spirits. Blunted tools leave ragged edges on the branch and are an invitation for disease to attack your plants.
Don’t have the required tools or enough time? You can always take the hassle out of pruning and give Jim’s Mowing a call on 0800 454 654 or book online for a free, no obligation quote!
Cleaning Your Gutters
In the last 10 years Melbourne has had 7 major storms, 2 of which were referred to as freak storms and the remaining 5 severe storms resulting flash flooding, large hail, extremely heavy rainfall, thunderstorms and even reports of tornadoes, all causing widespread damage. These events have not been isolated to just Victoria. Queensland, New South Wales and Western Australia have really suffered with cyclones and floods in recent months. Prevent water damage by ensuring your gutters are cleaned regularly.
Prevention is the Key
Prevention and maintenance can abolish most common causes of clogged and overflowing gutters. Consistent cleaning, as well as regular trimming of trees that overhang your gutters and roof are critical. Lastly, gutter guards are a valuable investment in densely-treed areas.
Gutter cleaning is imperative as part of home maintenance. If you do not keep your gutters clean, they will soon pile up with leaves and other debris that will not permit water to appropriately drain from your roof. This can lead to many problems, like rotting wood, sagging gutters, pest infestations, and much more. That’s why it’s a good idea to clean out your gutters a minimum of twice a year.
There could be any number of reasons why your gutters are overflowing. Here are our resolutions for solving this common household problem.
Blockages
They may be blocked, it could be a problem with the slope to the downpipe, the downpipe itself might be clogged or in the case of older and recently-renovated properties the roof drainage system may not be up to the job at hand any more.
Water Damage
The water may have already caused some damage by the time you notice you have a problem, especially if it has flooded under the roof, so the first thing to do when you notice a congested gutter is to check the roof and ceilings nearby for any water damage. This can be costly and difficult to repair if it travels too far. However, the good news is if the water has not entered the roof, you can fix your overflowing gutters quickly and easily.
Downpipes
An overworked roof drainage system commonly caused by an inadequate number of downpipes for the roof size can be amended by adding more downpipes. You might want to consult a professional if you have to go down this road, as they will assist you in calculating important factors such as slope, load and positioning.
If your downpipe seems to be blocked or clogged, you may be able to clear the blockage using a high-pressure washer or by dismantling part of the pipe and retrieving the blockage that way.
If the angle of your gutters to the downpipes is not steep enough to allow the water to move freely then you will need to reposition them higher at the end furthest away.
Cleaning Your Gutters
Gutter Guards
Gutter guards are basically caps that go over your gutters to minimise debris clogging. There are slight slits in the guards that let water pass through so you can still direct the water where you want it to go. The caps will stop leaves, nuts, branches, and other nuisances from piling up in your guttering. This will minimise the work you have to do later on. If you have a rather new guttering or you plan on installing new gutters in the future, go the extra mile and get some gutter guards for your home.
Power Wash Your Gutters
If your gutters are still in good shape structurally, you should be able to power wash them for cleaning. This will involve you to getting a generator that converts your garden hose into a high-pressure water system, also known as a gurney. Power washing will save you from having to pull out debris by hand, but it is not wise to try on older gutters that are weak and bent. The pressure from the water may cause the gutters to fall if they are not fortified well.
If you choose to power wash your gutters, circumvent forcing all of the debris down the downpipe. As an alternative, try to push it over the edge of the gutters and onto the grass for you to rake up later. This may seem like more work, but a cluttered downpipe can be a giant headache to mess with. Try to avoid that if possible.
Pull out Debris by Hand
If power washing is not an possibility or you have too much clutter in your gutters to efficiently power wash, you will need to pull out the debris by hand. It would be sensible to wear thick work gloves or rubber gloves when you do this in case there are sharp objects or harmful insects in your gutters. Put all of the debris you pull out into a green waste bin so you do not have to clean it up from the ground.
Rinse the Gutters with a Hose
Once the bulk of the debris is out of your gutters, you should be able to wash it out with a hose. Watch how the water flows once you put it in there and make sure it comes out of the downpipe. If not, you may have to use a small brush on a wire to push out whatever may be clogging the system.
Rinsing your gutters will also let you see if there are any areas where the water may pool up rather than drain. If you see that, you may want to replace that section of your guttering because it will cause problems later on.
And of course, not everyone wants to clean their own gutters – it can be very dangerous and we all know someone who has taken a nasty fall off a ladder, with nasty consequences. Don’t hesitate to call Jim’s Mowing on 0800 454 654 or book online and we’ll happily clean the gutters for you!
Crop Rotation for Growing Vegies
Simple and Practical Crop Rotation
Crop rotation is extremely beneficial for not only your crops, but also to aid in building and maintaining healthy soil, to minimise pests and diseases, reduce chemical use, and manage nutrient requirements – all which will maximise your harvest. The ideologies of crop rotation have been successfully used for thousands of years in farming and are still used today. The simplicity of crop rotation allows the practice to be used in your own vegetable gardens with great success.
Crop rotation is self-explanatory – simply rotating your crops, so that no garden bed or plot grows the same crop in consecutive seasons. Doing so;
- Decreases the build-up of pests and diseases in the soil by confiscating their preferred habitat and therefore breaking the pest or disease’s life cycle, reducing and even eliminating your necessity for chemical spraying.
- Achieves the necessary soil pH and nutrient levels, to help your vegetables get the maximum supplements out of your soil. The use of composts, manures, lime and fertilisers at the correct times will also assist in producing successful crops.
To Begin with;
Just contemplate vegetables in terms of their family names. For example, in succeeding years or seasons, you do not want to plant Broccoli, which is a member of the Brassicaceae family in the same garden bed. The Brassicaceae family has many other members such as Cauliflower, Kohlrabi, Cabbage and are all affected by the same pests and diseases. So we group them together (Brassicaceae) and rotate them to another bed that hasn’t seen Brassica for a couple of years. We group certain plants together and they are rotated as a group. For instance, beans and peas are both in the Legume group, and garlic and onions are in the Allium group. With a just little preparation you will have your crop rotation structure organised in no time.
The Next Level;
Advanced gardeners should be thinking about the way plants feed or draw nutrients from the soil, for example; The Brassicaceae family (Cauliflower, Broccoli, Cabbage, etc.) require plenty of nitrogen for good leaf growth and are commonly considered substantial feeders. A crop to follow nitrogen ravenous Brassicas may be legumes such as peas, beans, and lentils. Legumes feed lightly and have the ability to ‘fix’ nitrogen into soils, improving the nitrogen content for impending plantings. Tomatoes and capsicums (acid lovers) like a lower pH, and the pH generally drops (becomes more acidic) as more compost and manure is added to soil, therefor lime should be applied after they are finished, ready for a crop that enjoys a higher pH level.
Example of a Simple Rotation Plan
Crop assemblies in a four-year rotation would be as follows;
| Legumes & Pod Crops | Brassicas & Leaf Vegetables | Alliums | Other (Root and Fruiting Crops) |
| Okra | Broad Beans | Onions (All types) | Tomatoes |
| Runner Beans | Kales | Shallots | Capsicums |
| Lima Beans | Cauliflowers | Chives | Celery |
| Peas | Cabbages | Leeks | Beetroot |
| Brussels Sprouts | Garlic | Salsify | |
| Mustard Greens | Parsnips | ||
| Pak Choi | Carrots | ||
| Swedes & other Turnips | Potatoes | ||
| Radishes | Sweet Potatoes | ||
| Silverbeet | Corn | ||
| Spinach |
A yearly rotation schedule would look something like this.
| Plot 1 | Plot 2 | Plot 3 | Plot 4 | |
| Year 1 | Brassicas | Other | Alliums | Legumes |
| Year 2 | Legumes | Brassicas | Other | Alliums |
| Year 3 | Alliums | Legumes | Brassicas | Other |
| Year 4 | Other | Alliums | Legumes | Brassicas |
These examples may be used in your garden although everyone’s soil, climate and tastes vary so a little alteration will most probably be required. There are many approaches to crop rotation, some are simple like the one above but others can get relatively complex, some even include a ‘fallow year’, which is a year where nothing is grown in that specific plot.
Even if you decide to integrate other vegetables or methods, just remember the most basic rule for the best possible harvest is Annual Crop Rotation!
Jim’s mowing offers a huge range of gardening services and maintenance beyond just mowing, so if we can help at all give us a call on 0800 454 654 or book online and we might just surprise you!
Adding a Splash of Colour to Your Garden
If your garden is looking a little dull, here are some great tips that will really stimulate your senses. Adding colour to your garden creates a
visual oasis that separates one’s thoughts from everyday stresses. If you want to see colour on a lavish scale, there is a smorgasbord of bedding plants available including mixing new varieties with old favourites.
Bedding displays have been popular since the Victorian era, when striking colours and intricate patterns became a fashionable part of high-style horticulture. With a contemporary layout and the right components, you can achieve an overriding sense of colour, scents and fun in your garden.
One of the challenges in creating mass displays is avoiding repetition therefor it is recommended to use common plants in uncommon ways. Dusty Miller (Centaurea cineraria) is as oldie but goodie, and can be grown as a column for a unique visual effect.
Planting Cineraria (Pericallis) at the base of the column can really set it off visually. Cineraria (Pericallis), a very familiar plant, can take on a life of its own when mass-planted.
Ornamental cabbages (Ornamental Cabbage – Brassica oleracea) are a fantastic as a form of display as they are beautifully detailed and also edible. When you are using plants like these ornamental cabbages, one of the things to avoid is the ‘hundreds and thousands’ effect. By separating colours into distinct bands and mass-planting them, you can really heighten the difference between the diverse varieties.
Nemesia is a stunning flower which comes in a variety of colours and only requires free drainage and a frost-free climate to grow. This plant is great for bringing bees to the garden, but is unfortunately not used very often.
Scent is also an important factor to consider when decorating your garden, every individual gardener will have their own preference, but the Matthiola often cultivated for its heavy scent and variety of colours.
Your garden is like a blank canvas waiting for you to add the colour, all you need to do is decide what colours you want and where to display them. For a smooth and subtle effect, you could combine pastels with other plants that have strong primary colours.
The next step is adding features to your garden, for example, a large ornamental cask that can be planted with Violas giving the impression that it is full to the brim with paint and is spilling over. Adding features does not have to be expensive, you can use old wheelbarrows, tyres, pallets, basically anything you can imagine.
It’s not just annual flowers that can generate a great effect in a bedding display, you can also include many different perennials. It’s imperative to know your garden’s microclimate. Primulas (Poison Primrose – Primula obconica) tend to last longer if they get less than six hours of sunshine.
By contrast, another bed might be warm, sunny and dry which is a perfect place to grow succulents, for example, Kalanchoe which is very rarely grown as a bedding plant, but great to work with as it is very enduring and needs very little water or care. At the end of their display, you can break off individual leaves and propagate them in potting mix to grow new plants.
Happy planning and planting! And remember, if you need any help in designing, planting or maintaining your garden, call your local Jim’s Mowing team on 0800 454 654 or book online for a free quote! We’d be happy to help.
Nemesia
Ornamental Cabbages
Cineraria
Dusty Miller
Matthiola Incana
Wheelbarrow Planter Box
Matthiola Regal White
Primulas
Violas planted in Cask
Kalanchoe succulents
Flower covered car
Overcoming the Challenges of Gardening by the Seaside
You wake up greeted by a stunning view and are lulled to sleep by the gentle sound the sea makes when it caresses the beach. Is it too much to ask for a blooming garden?
Almost all coastal property owners will tell you that gardening is like a losing battle. Simply put, the elements that make a coastal property appealing are the same elements that make seaside gardening difficult. You’ve got to deal with sandy soil, a huge amount of salt and heat, and onshore winds.
These elements combined can burn leaves and inhibit the growth of plants. But rather than accepting and being resigned to your fate as a shoreline property dweller, you can take a few steps in order to make your dream of having a beautiful coastal garden come true. The key here is to find suitable plants and make do with the available conditions.
One of the first things that you need to deal with is the soil quality. For example, if you live along Perth’s coastal area, it is highly likely that the soil on your property is more alkaline.
This requires improving soil quality through the addition of both organic matter and wetting agents. These will improve the structure of the soil as well as its capacity to hold water.
In adding organic matter, make sure that you dig this into the ground instead of simply spreading it on top of the soil. This will help prevent the growth of weeds.
It is also advisable to apply a thick layer of mulch at least once a year in order to contain evaporation and serve as a cushion for the ground against the wind.
And speaking of winds, you have to minimise the effects of these on the growth of your plants. The best way to do that would be to create windbreaks by using strategically positioned trees and shrubs around the garden.
In building windbreaks, you can try to combine trees and shrubs with any material you have on your property. You may also use fences and screens, but be sure to leave a gap to prevent turbulence. Keep the harsh wind and intense sunlight away from your plants.
When it comes to selecting plants for your coastal gardens, opt for native plants instead of having a lawn and a garden of flowering plants. Native plants can easily handle the conditions in your area and can provide both food and home for local birds and animals. Plus, these plants are more tolerant to drought and require little water.
For professional assistance with your garden planning and design, planting and maintenance, please don’t hesitate to call Jim’s Mowing & Gardening on 0800 454 654 or book online today!
Tips for Beautiful Roses
Climbing Rose varieties
The reward for gaining and applying the relevant knowledge about rose gardening is big, beautiful rose bushes, laden with colourful and fragrant roses. Here we will help you learn all about pruning roses, preparing rose beds, types of roses and the best way to look after them.
The types of rose bushes you can choose from are; Shrub Roses, Miniature Roses, Climber, Grandiflora, Floribunda and Rugosa. Be aware that some of these are quite hardy while others can be sensitive, so be sure to choose wisely and buy ones that are suited to your garden and lifestyle.
Caring for Your Roses
Caring for rose bushes is vital to their general health and vigour, as well as their appearance, below are some helpful guides.
Planting
Plant roses where they will collect a minimum of 5 to 6 hours of full sun per day. Roses grown in weak sun may not die at once, but they weaken progressively. Give them plenty of organic matter when planting and don’t crowd them.
Wear sturdy gloves to shield your hands from prickly thorns and have a hose or bucket of water and all your planting utensils nearby. Keep your bare-root rose in water until you are ready to place it in the ground.
Minature Rose varieties
Roses can be cut back and moved in either spring or winter, definitely not in summer, as they may suffer and die in the high temperature. Large rose canes can be cut back by as much as two thirds, and smaller ones to within 6 to 12 inches of the ground.
When you relocate your roses, be sure to dig a much bigger hole than you think you need (for most types, the planting hole should be about 15 to 18 inches wide) and add plenty of organic matter such as compost or aged manure.
Watering
Roses require at least an inch of water weekly throughout their growing season, beginning in spring or following spring planting. Rose bushes are very prone to fungal diseases, such as black spot and powdery mildew, especially when their foliage is kept too wet.
Attentively water your roses, ensure that you soak the entire root zone at least twice a week in dry weather. Elude frequent shallow sprinklings, which won’t reach the deeper roots and may encourage fungus. Roses do best with 90 inches of rain per year, so unless you live in a rain forest, water regularly, although If adequate drainage is not provided, they can easily drown. The ideal soil is rich and loose, with good drainage. One of the worst mistakes you can make is to not provide adequate drainage.
Use mulch to help save water, decrease stress, and encourage healthy growth, apply a 2 to 4 inch layer of chopped and shredded leaves, grass clippings, or shredded bark around the base of your roses. Allow about an inch of space between the mulch and the base stem of the plant.
Florabunda Roses “French Lace Rose”
Feeding
Feed roses on a regular basis before and throughout the blooming cycle (avoid chemical fertilizers and pesticides if you’re harvesting for the kitchen), a slow releasing fertilizer is best or apply a balanced granular fertilizer (5-10-5 or 5-10-10) minimum of once a month during the hotter months. Allow ¾ to 1 cup for each bush, and sprinkle it around the drip line, not against the stem. Also apply an additional tablespoon of Epsom salts along with your fertilizer; the magnesium sulphate will encourage new growth from the bottom of the bush.
Pruning
Prune roses every spring and terminate all old or diseased plant material. Start with pruning shears for smaller growth. Use loppers, (the bigger, long-handle shears) for growth that is more than half an inch thick. A small pruning saw is handy, as it cuts on both the push and the pull.
Deadhead religiously and keep beds clean. Every leaf has a growth bud, so removing old flower blossoms encourages the plant to make more flowers instead of using the energy to make seeds. Clean away from around the base of the rosebushes as any trimmed debris that can harbor disease and insects. Stop deadheading all your rose plants 3 to 4 weeks before winter so
Grandiflora Roses
as not to encourage new growth at a time when new shoots may be damaged by the cold.
Preparing Your Roses for Winter
Do not prune roses in the winter, simply cut off any dead or diseased canes. Stop fertilizing 6 weeks prior to winter but continue watering during dry weather to help keep plants fortified. Mulch or add compost before the weather turns too cold. Compost, mulch, dry wood chips or chopped leaves are all good for insulating your rose beds.
Pests and Diseases
Good gardening practices such as removing dead leaves and canes will help reduce pests. Find out which pests are most prevalent in your area by checking with your local nursery. Here are some of the more common problems:
- Stem Borers
- Japanese Beetles
- Aphids
- Black Spot/Powdery Mildew
- Spider Mites
Roses are a delectable treat for pests so try planting lavender near your roses. Not only will you have the makings of a nice potpourri, but the scent of lavender discourages most pests.
Rugosa Roses
Fun Fact
Rugosa roses are overloaded with vitamins and used for jams, jellies, syrups, pies, teas, and wine. The petals can be tossed into salads for colour, utilized to decorate cakes, or distilled to make rose water.
For expert assistance with pruning your precious roses, or any other gardening maintenance, please contact Jim’s Mowing on 0800 454 654 or book online today!
Shrub Rose Display
